Today, we can find oolong tea produced in many Southeast Asian countries, such as Vietnam and Thailand; however, this tea originated in the Fujian province of Southeastern China during the Qing Dynasty (mid-to-late 17th century). There are claims that Wulong tea originates from the Song dynasty; however, that is not the case. In fact, Wulong tea descends from the Beiyuan tribute tea, also called dragon and phoenix tribute tea, which was produced in the same place as early as the Song dynasty (960 - 1279). However, the production and processing techniques for tea at this early stage have little in common with modern-day Wulong tea. Now, the best oolong teas come to us from both Southeastern China and Taiwan, although it wasn’t planted in Taiwan until the late 18th century.
Chinese vs. Taiwanese oolong. This is a tricky topic. And for the most part, it will depend on the specific type of oolong. Of course, oolong originated in China, but the growing conditions and skills of the farmers' skills allowed Taiwanese oolong to quickly catch up to China’s quality within a couple of centuries.
Which oolong, which country?
When it comes to China, the most famous oolongs include Phoenix Mountains Dancong and Wuyi Mountain Oolong.
China's oolongs are generally oxidized more and baked at higher temperatures than Taiwan's oolongs. This results in a rich, full-bodied tea with little astringency.
The most famous Chinese oolong teas are from the Fujian province, where they grow on cliffs. A prominent oolong of this type is the much-loved Da Hong Pao.
Another noteworthy tea is Tie Guan Yin, originating in Anxi County, Fujian province. Tie Guan Yin has become very popular in the West, perhaps thanks to its pleasant, full-bodied taste, which some might compare to drinking a decent cup of coffee.
Lastly, the Dancong series is made from tea grown on semi-wild, tall, tree-like tea shrubs in the Phoenix Mountains of Guangdong Province. This tea is very special, with each variety resembling a distinct floral aroma. (Click here to read our article on Dan Cong oolong teas and the specific aromas that they carry.)
In Taiwan, high mountain oolong, Oriental Beauty, Dong Ding Oolong, and Milk Oolong are some of the celebrated lightly oxidized oolong types.
For Taiwanese oolongs, traditional Chinese processing methods were used for many years. However, with the growth of Taiwan’s tea industry, the local tea masters refined their techniques and produced some excellent new blends.
In the case of Milk Oolong (perhaps with small exceptions), you need to be extra cautious when purchasing one produced in China. Chinese producers of this famous tea have a sketchy history of adding fake aroma and claiming to “steam it with milk”.
Ali Shan is home to some of Taiwan’s most remarkable teas. Grown at elevations of 1000 meters and higher, they offer an intense floral aroma with a long-lasting sweet and creamy aftertaste.
To truly find your favorite area of oolong production, we recommend experimenting and trying different oolongs produced in different areas. And if you already have one, please let us know in the comments below!
