When we were in Shenzhen, we were introduced to Zhan Laoshi, the Inheritor of Gong Fu Tea Art Intangible Cultural Heritage. This title signifies that for generations, Zhan's family has been deeply immersed in the Gong Fu Cha culture and that Zhan Laoshi himself has made a significant contribution to the art of Gong Fu Cha.
Chaozhou is the cradle of Gong Fu Cha. This is where it all started during the Ming Dynasty. Over the centuries, this fascinating culture became deeply ingrained in the lives of the people of Guangdong. It then made its way to Taiwan, underwent further development in the 1970s, returned to mainland China, and spread worldwide.
We simply couldn't miss this chance to learn about Chaozhou Gongfu Cha from a person such as Zhan Laoshi.
Preparing Tea and Teaware.
Zhan Laoshi pours hot water into the teapot (Cha Hu, 茶壶), then decants it into the cups, ensuring no water is left in the teapot. According to the Chaozhou tradition, dry leaves are placed on a piece of paper instead of Cha Ze (茶则). After we examined the leaves and inhaled their aroma, Zhan Laoshi gently transferred tea leaves into the now-hot clay teapot. While tea leaves are getting warmed up in the pot, Zhan Laoshi is washing teacups, placing each cup sideways into another while rotating a cup as it is bathing in hot water.
– One of the reasons for warming up teacups is to equalize the temperature of teacups with the tea's temperature. It will help intensify the flavor and open up the aroma. Otherwise, the cold cups will cause a temperature drop in the brew, which will affect the aroma. – Zhan Laoshi explains.
– In Chaozhou tradition, the temperature requirements are strict. The environment in which tea is brewing should be hot.
So, we pour the water inside the teapot onto the leaves and then on the outside of the pot to ensure that the teapot is not losing any heat.
How to Drink Tea.
We usually discard the first brew as it is not flavorful enough to consume. It serves to moisten the tea leaves to help them open up on consecutive brews.
Once tea is poured into the cups, we don't wait for the tea to cool off. But before you take a sip, take a second to observe the color of the brew. See if the tea soup is clear and transparent, and then smell the aroma of the tea soup. Once you bring the cup to your lips, blow on the tea just a little and then slurp, allowing air to cool off the tea further as it enters your mouth. Then, the tea will go down your throat smoothly.
In terms of taste, in Dan Cong Oolong teas (单枞), we are looking for the following two qualities: the aroma should be harmonious, without harsh or overpowering notes, and the taste should be well-pronounced, with a long-lingering finish.
The Key Elements in Brewing Dan Cong Oolong.
There are three key elements in brewing Dan Cong Oolong:
First, we have to make sure that our tea is good, that it comes from a good, clean environment, and that it was processed correctly.
Then, we should choose the right teaware to accompany tea. For brewing tea, we usually use either porcelain gaiwan (蓋碗) or a teapot made of Chaozhou ZhuNi (潮州朱泥) clay. Chaozhou ZhuNi clay teapots are made from the same soil on which Dancong tea grows, so these two are very compatible. The thin walls of a Chaozhou teapot ensure that the aroma and taste are not muted by the clay. Instead, they give them room for further development.
"Dragon Egg" Chaozhou ZhuNi Teapot
The third essential element in tea brewing is, of course, water. The pH of the water and its hardness will have a direct effect on the tea's taste. Spring water, with a pH of around 5.8, is the best for brewing tea.
Teaware in Chaozhou Gong Fu Cha.
I already mentioned that in Chaozhou, we prefer brewing in either porcelain gaiwan or a clay teapot that is not too porous. Porous material can mute the tea, so if you are using a Yixing teapot (紫砂壶 / 宜兴壶), it's better to use a teapot made of DuanNi (緞泥) or ZhuNi (朱泥) clays.
Teacups should be made of thin porcelain. Thin porcelain is important for the development of the aroma of tea. Aroma plays a vital role in the tea experience. Traditional tea spaces in Chaozhou are small and intimate. When we drink tea, we are united at a small round table.
Small teacups with wide opening help to fill the room with the aroma of tea, to everyone's enjoyment.
With this type of shape, there is no need to put a cup to one's nose to enjoy the fragrance – the whole room is infused with the aroma, creating a warm, cozy atmosphere. Also, wider cups made of thin porcelain allow the brew to cool down to a drinkable temperature fast enough so we don't have to wait and can get to it as soon as the tea is served.
One of the reasons why we don't use Gong Dao Bei (公道杯) in our Gong Fu Cha is because we prefer to drink tea while it is still hot. If we take time to pour tea first into a Cha Hai (茶海) and then into cups, the brew's temperature will drop significantly, and it will negatively affect the taste and aroma. Another reason not to use Gong Dao Bei is this: the taste of tea in a teapot is layered. It is thicker at the bottom and thinner at the top. We like it when it's layered, while one of the main functions of Gong Dao Bei is to ensure that all layers are mixed, making the brew more monotonous.
The kettle for boiling water (砂铫 – Sha Diao) for Dancong Oolong should be clay. Water boiled in a clay kettle gives the tea more body. The kettle should be small and refilled with fresh water often to maintain freshness, as water should not be overboiled. And for the heat source for a kettle, traditionally, we use olive pit charcoal. But today, we often use alcohol burners instead. Such burners are simply more convenient.
The Role of Fragrance in Dan Cong Oolong Tea.
Fragrance is the key feature of Dan Cong Oolongs. If we have to single out one feature of our tea that makes it stand out among all other oolongs – it is, without a doubt, its aromatics. The aromatic substances inside the leaves of Dan Cong Oolongs are the most abundant and varied among all other teas.
There are more than 100 types of Dancong Oolong, each with a distinct character. It is very much like with people – each has their own personality. And the most crucial step in Dan Cong Oolong production, responsible for capturing character, is the last roast. By altering the temperature and time of this last roast alone, we can evoke hundreds of different aromas in tea. We can compare it to the construction of a house: laying the foundation is crucial for a stable building. But the way you will ornate the house will give it its individuality.
Arrangement of Tea Space.
Traditional Chaozhou Gong Fu Cha is rather frugal. Every piece on the table serves a purpose. Tea space (Cha Xi – 茶席) shouldn't be crowded with things; there should be only a few decorations, no excesses. There could be a calligraphy scroll hanging, but that's about it. The idea is that every person should be able to participate and feel comfortable. For this, the surroundings should be simple and cozy. That's why we value things that are simple, ragged, and aged, things that have an earthy feeling. Older objects bring a special feel. They are settled and instill a calm mood. This is something that the Japanese call Wabi-Sabi.
The Role of Gong Fu Cha in The Daily Lives of People.
Gong Fu Cha is an integral part of the people of Chaozhou. It is so deeply ingrained into our culture that tea and people have become inseparable. Gong Fu Cha is representative of our culture. We drink tea in the morning, at work, and at home after work. We drink it to get into a better mood and to improve our diet. Tea is the medicine of the Chaozhou people.
But what is most important is the influence of Gong Fu Cha on our character. Gong Fu Cha cultivates character by making us strive to be better at our actions by observing traditions and following steps.
Apart from the purely physical features of Gong Fu Cha, the brewing techniques, there is also a spiritual level — applying principles of Gong Fu culture to our personal development in order to become a better version of ourselves and improve our approach to the world around us.