There are two variations of Pu-erh tea: Sheng Pu-erh (the Raw or green type) and Shou Pu-erh (the Ripe or black type).
Both Sheng (生普洱) and Shou (熟普洱) Pu-erh are made from Yunnan’s large-leaf tea trees (Camellia sinensis var. assamica). Raw (Sheng) Pu-erh is pan-fired, rolled, sun-dried, and then aged, during which it slowly oxidizes and ferments. Ripe (Shou) Pu-erh first undergoes an accelerated fermentation step (Wo Dui – 渥堆), then is dried and aged. Aging, especially in Shou and older Sheng, deepens the color and makes the flavor smoother and bolder.
What Is The Difference Between Raw And Ripe Pu-erh?
Raw (Sheng) Pu-erh is made from Mao Cha (毛茶) that was picked, quickly roasted, sun-dried, and then steamed to be compressed into round disks called cakes. After which, the cakes are aged until the tea’s flavor is fully developed.
Because Raw Pu-erh doesn’t undergo the wet piling process, it retains a fresh scent and a bit of astringency, with a sweet aftertaste.
Ripe (Shou) Pu-erh. At first, Shu Pu-erh goes through the exact same steps as the Sheng Pu-erh. However, at the stage of producing the cakes, it undergoes the following procedure, called ‘Wet Piling’ (渥堆 – Wo Dui):
- the leaves are piled to a height of around 70 cm, but different tea masters have their own preferences.
- the piled tea gets wetted with water, and then covered with a linen cloth. This step keeps the tea warm and creates a humid environment that accelerates fermentation.
- after the tea ferments to a certain degree, it is piled and ventilated.
Our Fengqing GuShu Chun Jian Raw Pu-erh, 2012
How Does Aging Affect Pu-erh?
For Raw Pu-erh:
- aging adds complexity as the tea keeps on fermenting over the years, and with each year, its taste keeps transforming, losing bitterness and gaining new notes
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higher-grade raw maocha can significantly benefit from long-term aging. Some drinkers feel that flavor development slows down after a few decades, but opinions differ widely, and some claim that good Raw Pu-erh can evolve for 30–40 years or more.
For Ripe Pu-erh:
- the tea gets fermented in an accelerated way, and then, as it ages, it ventilates, settles down, and gets rid of all those unwanted notes from the wet piling and the fermentation process.
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good Shou can also develop more depth and complexity over time, though the changes are usually most noticeable in the first 3–10 years and then slow down.
Aging benefits both Raw and Ripe Pu-erh, but in different ways. Raw Pu-erh has the bigger long-term arc, while Ripe Pu-erh often reaches a very comfortable state in its first decade of storage.
What are Chen Xiang and Chen Yun?
In Chinese tea tasting, people often talk about Chen Xiang (陈香 – aged aroma) and Chen Yun (陈韵 – aged charm) – the smooth, mellow qualities that appear in well-aged tea. These aged notes are what many Pu-erh drinkers seek out in older cakes.
Our Fengqing Zhou Shi Ripe Pu-erh Tea Cake, 2018
Older Pu-erh = Better Taste?
Many of us were led to believe that it is reasonable to pay an extremely high price for a Pu-erh aged 20+ years. Most often, it is actually unreasonable.
In fact, older age does not equal better taste, and although there are some longer-aged Pu-erhs out there with an exceptional taste, in general, this should not be your area of focus when looking to buy a delicious cake.
Think about it the same way you would about wine: not all wine benefits from aging.
Another common problem with Pu-erh is the fishy taste many of us have experienced.
To make it clear, your Pu-erh should not taste fishy.
That ‘fishy’ note many people notice in some ripe Pu-erh is usually a sign of poor or rushed wet-piling or tea that hasn’t rested long enough afterwards.
Bad storage (too wet, moldy) can lead to other problems – musty or moldy smells.
So, if you detect strong fishiness or obvious storage faults, it’s safer to avoid that tea. Once the aging process goes wrong, there is virtually no way to reverse it. Always buy Pu-erh from reputable sources and be wary of suspiciously low prices.
When Is It Beneficial To Age Pu-erh Longer?
To determine whether or not the final product would have benefited from aging, we first have to look at our raw product - Mao Cha, from which all Pu-erh is made.
Similarly, as when we look at all other teas, the final product will differ based on so many factors:
Which leaves were picked — new leaves and buds or the older, bigger leaves? When was it picked? How was it picked? What is the condition of the soil? Were pesticides used? And so many more!
The tea that usually benefits from aging is Raw Pu-erh made from high-quality mao cha. Rarely will aging benefit a Ripe Pu-erh.
How Does The Taste Transform With Age?
Ultimately, people who enjoy drinking Pu-erh will have many opinions. There are quite a lot of people who love the fresh, slightly astringent taste of a young Pu-erh as much as there are people who love the mellow, flowing taste of an aged Pu-erh.
In general, as the tea ages, it gradually changes, showcasing a new flavor profile. In many cases, young Shengs that are only a few years old still taste fresh, sometimes bitter, and have floral notes. Over time, especially under warmer, more humid storage conditions, it often moves toward fruitier notes, and after a decade or more, it can develop deeper dried-fruit, woody, and nutty tones. The exact timing depends a lot on the tea and how it’s stored.
After having the proper information to know what to look out for when trying Pu-erh, we invite you to sample both Shou and Sheng Pu-erh of different aging periods, and with more experience, learning which exact flavor profiles attract you most!
If you are new to Pu-erh, or if you are looking to find a cake you like, we recommend checking out our Pu-erh Teas Section, which holds carefully curated samples of both Shou and Sheng Pu-erh.