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A Historic Tea: Liu Bao Hei Cha

Posted by Angelina Kurganska on

Long ago, the wise tea master Lao Cha was on a pilgrimage through the mountainous ranges of Guangxi province, China, when he stumbled upon a tired farmer:

— Sifu, do you have something for me that is comforting, like a thick rice porridge, yet sweet and robust like coffee, that will help me tackle all this work? 
— Of course, young one! Let me share with you a woven basket of Liu Bao. 
  
Path of Cha's legend:)

 

Hei Cha In A Nutshell

Literally meaning “Black Tea” (or "Dark Tea"), Hei Cha is different from the "Black Tea" we know of in the West, which is actually called “Red Tea” in China.

Hei Cha belongs to the post-fermented category. It means the tea leaves of the finished product continue to transform under the combined action of various bacteria, yeasts, and molds. The wet fermentation process exposes the tea leaves to high amounts of moisture levels at higher temperatures, taking the tea leaves one step further from oxidized teas like Red Tea (Hong Cha).

Liu Bao Hei Cha (Guangxi Pu-erh Tea), 2015

Liu Bao Hei Cha


The History of Liu Bao

Many of the types of tea we drink nowadays are nothing like the tea that was drunk 1,000 or even 200 years ago. The tea sages we admire today, like Lu Yu, drank tea processed and prepared in a completely different style from the tea we know and love today.

Liu Bao, on the other hand, is a tea of history. It is one of the oldest styles of tea preparation that is still preserved and drank to this day. It is an excellent example of the trade routes that existed many years ago when the nomadic people of faraway places used to depend on the tea supply received from the warmer climates of China. The fermentation that the tea undergoes helps it survive the long journeys.

The name alone — Liu Bao — is full of history. "Liu Bao" literally translates as "Six Castles," referring to the forts in a specific area of Guangxi long ago. The tea took on this name because its production first started in the Liu Bao village of Guangxi Province.

Tea production in the Liu Bao region dates back to the Tang Dynasty (618–907). Liu Bao, as we know it today, began to take shape much later, reaching prominence during the Qing Dynasty (1644–1912). During the Qing Dynasty, it was one of the most highly prized teas. Nobles would drink it daily for health and beauty or gift it to visitors and travelers.

In recent history, Liu Bao was exported to Macau, Hong Kong, and Malaysia, where it was primarily consumed by miners for its soothing and digestive qualities. For this reason, the tea slowly gained a reputation as an everyday tea. Only recently has it begun to receive more recognition from tea connoisseurs worldwide and earn the appreciation it deserves.

tang dynasty chinese tea ceremony

Chinese Tea Ceremony During The Tang Dynasty

 

How Is Liu Bao Made?

The processing methods of Liu Bao served as the base for modern-day Ripe Pu-erh preparation (which developed fully only quite recently, the 1970s, to be exact). The two teas undergo very similar processing, partly because they are both part of the Hei Cha tea category.

  • First, the freshly harvested leaves are gradually pan-fried and rolled.
  • Next, the tea leaves are piled and exposed to high humidity until the desired fermentation level is reached.
  • Finally, the leaves are steamed and pressed into their iconic large bamboo baskets. After the tea leaves are packed into the baskets, they are left to air-dry for several months and then further aged. 

Traditional processing methods for Liu Bao and Shou Pu-erh often seem similar. Still, some key differences shape their distinct characters.

Unlike Shou Pu-erh, which undergoes the Wet Pilling (渥堆 – Wo Dui) process after the leaves have been dried, Liu Bao tea undergoes fermentation while the leaves still retain some moisture.

Traditionally, Liu Bao undergoes fermentation through a slower, more controlled process, with generally lower moisture and lower heat than Shou Pu-erh. The leaves are allowed to ferment slowly over several weeks or even months. This milder style of fermentation helps keep more of the tea's delicate flavors and natural sweetness intact, giving Liu Bao a more layered and balanced character.

Shou Pu-erh, on the other hand, goes through a more intense process. The leaves are piled higher, kept wetter, and stirred frequently, all under warmer conditions. This speeds up fermentation and tends to produce a darker, richer, and earthier taste.

There's also a key difference in how they're aged. Liu Bao is traditionally packed into bamboo baskets after its initial processing, where it continues to age slowly and naturally over time. This approach contributes to Liu Bao's signature smoothness, as well as its distinct woody, betel nut, or medicinal notes, which deepen slowly over time.

 

The Historical Tea Processing Method:

When Liu Bao was first made, it was a homemade tea. Families in Guangxi would cook the leaves in a wok with a little water, then hang them to dry above the kitchen oven. Pinewood fires gave the tea a faintly smoky character. Though this old practice is rare today, some families in Guangxi still preserve this old tea ritual as a local tradition.

guangxi tea

Guangxi Province

 

Health Benefits of Tea: Liu Bao 

According to Traditional Chinese Medicine, Liu Bao has exceptional properties. It’s considered to have both cooling and warming qualities, depending on its fermentation level. Liu Bao has the effect of removing excess heat and clearing blood. At the same time, it warms the body by eliminating excess dampness.

It is an excellent tea, acting as a sort of probiotic and clearing our intestines. When drunk after eating, it helps break down heavier foods and aids digestion. We also find that drinking some Liu Bao has a calming effect, clearing the mind and preparing us for a day of work. Many notice that drinking this sincere tea is both comforting and motivating. In a sense, it is a tea of contrasts, which is indeed what we love about it.

 

To Bew Liu Bao:

Similar to Pu-erh, darker and more aged Liu Bao teas tend to offer deeper, richer flavors. A quality Liu Bao won't be phased by a bit of extra tea leaf, using boiling water, or even oversteeping. On the contrary, it might make it even more robust and delicious. Try adding a bit more leaf than you are used to, or steep the tea a bit longer. Aim for a tea liquor with a dark, intense color.

A typical preparation method is to bring the tea leaves to a boil in a pot, then let them steep as they cool. The hot temperature doesn't harm the tea or extract any bitterness; instead, this method only enhances the tea's nutritional value. Liu Bao is very easy to brew and can be cooked or steeped as usual. 

What makes a good Liu Bao unique and different from all other teas is its distinct aroma — one that reminds us of betel nut. The taste of Liu Bao is also like that of betel nut, and it has a prominent lingering sweet finish, one that is sought after in many teas.