The History of White Tea

Posted by Angelina Kurganska on January 25, 2020

Imperial tea gardens were sometimes developed in secret to cultivate these rare teas. Poets spoke of these special teas as being white like the clouds, green like a dream, pure like snow, and as aromatic as an orchid.

White tea is the least processed among the six types of tea. The production utilizes the gentle process of withering and drying, which gives white teas delicate flavors, a smooth mouthfeel, as well as a subtly fruity or sweet finish. White teas tend to have less bitterness than other teas and can be more forgiving of water temperature and infusion times than green teas.

While we can trace references to "white tea" as far back as the Tang Dynasty (618-907), what the ancients drank was vastly different from our modern loose-leaf variety. In early texts, "white tea" referred to rare, wild albino tea plant mutations whose leaves grew pale in the forest. During this era, these precious spring flushes were processed according to traditional green tea methods to make compressed cake tea (饼茶 – Bǐngchá). The leaves were steamed, crushed, pressed into intricate molds, and baked until dry. To prepare a bowl, these cakes were toasted over a fire, ground into a powder, and boiled in a cauldron – frequently mixed with savory ingredients like ginger, orange peel, and mint.

Later on, during the Song Dynasty (960–1279), pale-leafed albino tea became the ultimate luxury for the royal court and was sent to the capital as an elite tribute to the emperor.

The processing shifted into a highly sophisticated art form: the steamed leaves were ground into a fine paste and pressed into tribute cakes. To serve it, the powder was placed into a dark bowl and whisked with a bamboo to produce a dense, milky-white froth. This is where today’s matcha takes its form. Unlike the common teas of the era, the imperial court strictly prohibited adding floral flavorings like jasmine, lotus, or chrysanthemum, preferring instead to appreciate the pure, unadulterated essence of the rare leaves.

Because these unique albino mutations were incredibly rare and could only be harvested during a fleeting window in early spring, the tedious process of crafting this elite tribute commanded a price that only the Emperor himself could afford. In fact, a definitive analysis of this historical white-leafed tea appeared in the famous "Treatise on Tea of the Daguan Era" (Daguan Cha Lun – 大观茶论), written by the imperial tea connoisseur Emperor Huizong in 1107. His book included profoundly detailed descriptions and rules for the grinding, whisking, and sensory evaluation of this majestic beverage.

The modern loose-leaf white tea we enjoy today took shape much later, tracing its roots to the local cultivars of Fujian province, propagated in the 19th century, when farmers developed a minimalistic, sun-withered style of processing using large-bud varieties like Fuding Da Bai Cha (福鼎大白茶). In the late 1800s, the bud-only Silver Needle (白毫银针 – Bai Hao Yin Zhen) gained widespread fame and began being exported globally, followed by the bud-and-leaf White Peony (白牡丹 – Bai Mudan) in the early 1900s. Today, these two classic styles remain the world's most celebrated types of white tea.

Before that, because these delicate teas were made from young buds and were minimally processed, it made it difficult to store and transport them without spoiling. White teas were rarely available outside of the tea-growing regions in Fujian. As loose leaf tea production methods improved, the process for creating white teas expanded beyond the Fujian province. People who have had the opportunity to try this rare and exquisite tea were eager to have it available outside of the original production region.

Just like in ancient times, white teas are still revered today for their delicate, rare, and beautiful aromas and flavors. Although they are still pricier than other tea types, we are lucky to have them available to us. Even now, most white teas are being handpicked and hand-processed. White tea is a genuine, sensational experience. While sipping on a cup of quality white tea, we can truly feel the artisanship that went into its making.

Tags: chinese tea, history, white tea