For those of us who are not deeply immersed in Japanese teas, it's easy to think of them all as just "green tea." But dig a bit deeper, and you quickly realize there's a lot more going on. One of the first things you'll notice is the word "cultivar," which means a particular variety (or "breed") of a tea plant that's been selected and bred for specific characteristics – things like flavor, aroma, leaf size, or how well the plant grows in certain conditions.
Japan has developed dozens of these cultivars, each with its own personality. Some cultivars produce teas with deep, rich umami flavors, perfect for high-end Matcha or Gyokuro. Others offer a lighter, fresher taste suited to everyday drinking. There are also the rarer specialty cultivars that enthusiasts and collectors hunt down.
Knowing a bit about cultivars is about understanding your tea better. It's the difference between just drinking a nice cup of tea and knowing exactly why you like that particular tea. In this article, we'll explore some of the major Japanese tea cultivars and what makes each one unique.
Yabukita
Let's start with the most famous one – Yabukita (やぶきた). Developed in Shizuoka in 1908 and officially registered in 1953, Yabukita is by far Japan's most popular tea cultivar, making up roughly 75% of tea grown in the country. You may be wondering why it is so popular. Well, first of all, it has a reliably balanced flavor, refreshing with moderate bitterness, and a grassy aroma that most people associate with Japanese tea. Second, it's hardy and adaptable, thriving in many different climates and soils across Japan.
However, its dominance also comes with drawbacks. Since Yabukita is so common, teas made from it can sometimes feel predictable, lacking the unique character you might find in more specialized cultivars. Its widespread cultivation has also limited the genetic diversity of Japanese tea, potentially increasing vulnerability to pests and diseases.
Okumidori
Developed from crossing Yabukita with native Zairai varieties, Okumidori (おくみどり) is favored for its mellow sweetness, smooth taste, and attractive, vibrant green color, making it ideal for high-grade Sencha, Gyokuro, and Matcha production. It's increasingly popular in tea-growing regions like Kagoshima and Kyoto. One particular advantage is its late harvest time ("oku" means "late"), which helps avoid spring frost damage. On the downside, Okumidori requires careful attention from farmers, as its late harvest can expose it to early summer pests or diseases, increasing the risk compared to cultivars harvested earlier.
Saemidori
Another cultivar that's gaining popularity is Saemidori (さえみどり). A cross between Asatsuyu and Yabukita, developed in Kagoshima and officially registered in 1990, Saemidori is prized for its rich umami, pronounced sweetness, and minimal bitterness. It's particularly well-suited for producing premium Sencha and Matcha due to its vivid green color and refined flavor profile. While highly praised, Saemidori has a limitation – it's somewhat sensitive to frost damage and disease. This means it performs best in southern, warmer tea regions, such as Kagoshima, which restricts its viability in colder areas of Japan.
Asatsuyu
Asatsuyu (あさつゆ) is often called the "natural gyokuro" cultivar because it naturally produces teas rich in umami and sweetness, similar to Gyokuro, without needing shading. It is highly respected among tea enthusiasts, but despite its excellent reputation, Asatsuyu comes with significant shortcomings – it is notably sensitive to cold weather and pests, making it harder for farmers to grow on a large scale.
Consequently, Asatsuyu remains relatively rare and is mainly cultivated by specialized tea producers targeting premium, boutique production markets.
Gokou
A cultivar closely associated with Kyoto's prestigious Uji tea region is Gokou (ごこう). Developed specifically for Gyokuro production in the 1950s, Gokou teas stand out for their deep umami, mellow sweetness, and complex aromatic profile, often exhibiting subtle floral or creamy notes.
This cultivar is highly valued among serious tea drinkers and often comes at a higher price. However, its popularity remains limited due to its lower adaptability compared to cultivars like Yabukita. It requires more controlled growing conditions, making it less practical for widespread cultivation.
Benifuki
Benifuki (べにふうき), registered in 1993, is a rather unusual cultivar among Japanese teas. What makes Benifuki unique is that it's a hybrid of native Japanese and Assam tea varieties, capable of producing robust black and oolong teas. Teas made from Benifuki have a distinctive, slightly astringent flavor that sets them apart from the smoother and sweeter cultivars. This cultivar is also prized for its potential health benefits – Benifuki is rich in methylated catechins – compounds believed to help alleviate allergy symptoms.
Yet, despite its intriguing qualities, Benifuki hasn't gained mainstream popularity. While its bold flavor profile appeals to some, it can be less appealing to traditional Japanese green tea aficionados, limiting its popularity to niche markets.
Zairai
Lastly, there's Zairai (在来), which isn't exactly a cultivar but a term for native or wild tea plants grown without deliberate selection or breeding. Zairai shows diversity in flavor, aroma, and growth habits. Each Zairai tea can taste vastly different depending on its specific region, elevation, and growing conditions. This diversity is a double-edged sword: it's fantastic for those who seek unique, terroir-driven experiences, but it also makes commercial production challenging.
Zairai teas are unpredictable. Growers can't easily guarantee flavor consistency or yields from year to year, limiting their appeal to larger-scale tea producers. Consequently, Zairai teas remain predominantly artisanal, enjoyed by niche communities of tea drinkers who value diversity and the unpredictability of natural tea production.
Why Understanding Cultivars Matters
The reason why knowing cultivars matters is very simple: it deepens your appreciation of tea. Each cultivar brings its distinct character. Knowing even a little about these cultivars helps understand not just what tea you're drinking (and the price behind it;) but also why it tastes the way it does and why you prefer certain teas over others.
If you've been mainly sticking to teas made from Yabukita (like most people do when first discovering Japanese tea), you might be surprised how much variety is out there once you start exploring other options. Teas like Okumidori and Saemidori offer sweeter, smoother tastes that can be a refreshing change from Yabukita's classic grassiness. More specialized cultivars, such as Gokou and Asatsuyu, introduce you to deeper umami and unique complexity. Meanwhile, cultivars like Benifuki can introduce you to a whole different side of Japanese tea production, including Wakoucha – Japanese black teas, and newly emerging Japanese oolongs.
Of course, exploring these options means also accepting their occasional shortcomings. Cultivars like Asatsuyu and Saemidori can be more challenging to grow, which limits their availability. Others, like Benifuki, have flavors that might challenge your palate at first. Yet even these "limitations" offer valuable insights into tea production, reminding you that tea is a natural product shaped by its environment.
Familiarizing yourself with Japanese tea cultivars helps discover new flavors and understand their origins. By understanding cultivars, one can develop a deeper connection with Japan's rich and varied tea culture. And along the way, you'll likely find a few new favorites you never knew existed:)