In the Western market, tea connoisseurs know the price of an adequately aged pu-erh cake or white tea. However, when hearing about aged oolong, many might become perplexed. Aging oolong never quite took off in the way that aged pu-erh did, perhaps because the production of aged oolongs remains pretty scarce and reserved for true enthusiasts of this tea type. So what is so special about aged oolong?
First, What Is Oolong Tea?
Oolong teas are semi-oxidized teas, falling between fully oxidized black teas and unoxidized green teas. Only a few regions in the world know of the intricate production methods of oolong tea. Indeed, farmers make this tea only from certain types of tea bushes growing in specific geographical regions. Today, these main production areas are in Fujian, Guangdong, and Taiwan.
Unlike many other teas, oolongs are made from larger, mature leaves. During the processing, farmers first shake the tea leaves for the edges of the leaves to "bruise". The edges of the leaves become brown or red. On the other hand, the middle of the leaves remains green. Finally, the resulting amount of oxidation will depend on the desired tea type. And, of course, the skill of the tea craftsmen. The result might be an oolong tea that is lightly oxidised and similar to a delicate-tasting green tea. Or one that is almost fully oxidised, tasting more like a dark, bold black tea.
To produce quality oolong tea, we need some of the most sophisticated and artisanal tea production skills. We often compare oolong tea artisans to boutique winemakers.
It's important to note that only high-quality oolong ages well.
What Is Aged Oolong?
As the name suggests, aged oolong is an oolong tea that tea makers leave to age. We can only call the oolong aged if the producers aged it for three years or more. We consider 10-20 years the "golden middle" of aged oolong tea.
The longer the tea ages, the more complex the flavors become. The taste of the tea smoothens because the bitter and astringent catechins break down, and the energy of the tea (茶气 – Cha Qi) also changes, making it feel less "jittery".
Before farmers age oolong, they always roast the tea leaves first. This is an essential step to remove moisture from the tea leaves and prepare them for aging. Tea masters then age the tea leaves in clay vessels, checking them every year and re-roasting them to deepen the flavors and remove excess moisture. Tea artisans, however, don't always follow the re-roasting step, especially if they are sure that the tea leaves don't have excess moisture.
Lao Cha Qing Xin Aged Oolong Tea, 2011 (Taiwan)
How Does Aged Oolong Taste?
Many who have yet to try aged oolong might initially imagine the taste of an aged pu-erh. We must say, the two teas are very different in terms of flavor profiles. Aged oolongs are incredibly sweet, mellow, and smooth. It doesn't possess the earthy, fermented taste of pu-erh. The taste is unique and complex, unlike that of other teas. Many tea enthusiasts claim that aged oolong has a more pronounced Cha Qi.
Aged Oolong vs Aged Pu-erh
Aged oolongs are vastly different from the more familiar aged pu-erh. First of all, farmers don't ferment oolong, which plays a huge role in its taste and aroma. Naturally, aged oolong won't have a strong earthy or fermented taste. It is far smoother and sweeter.
Tea masters often re-roast aged oolong every few years. The roasting removes excess moisture that would otherwise give the tea an earthy quality. However, excessive roasting may destroy the unique "plum" or "ginseng" notes of the aged tea.
Aging Oolong At Home
Aging oolong at home is much easier than aging pu-erh. It's not a very picky tea and doesn't require as much care.
Since farmers ferment pu-erh, not oolong, that's already a significant reason aging it becomes easier. Pu-erh requires a specific temperature and climate to promote fermentation. One that might be more accessible in Asian countries, but perhaps not in the US. Oolong, on the other hand, doesn't require any particular climate for aging.
Oolong requires a relatively dry climate for aging, which puts western dwellers at an advantage. Farmers in Taiwan, where oolong is usually aged, have a lot more on their plates when aging their oolongs, including keeping humidity at bay.
The most important thing is to get tea tins — metallic or ceramic, not glass jars. The containers mustn't let any light in. Then put your oolong away somewhere in your tea drawer, and you can completely forget about it for 10 or 15 years.
Farmers in Taiwan usually re-roast the tea every year because it absorbs too much moisture. If you live in a dry climate, this step is not crucial.
Checking the state of your aged oolong tea is simple — just take some of the loose leaf oolong from the tea jar and brew it.
Which Oolongs Are Best Aged?
The best aged oolongs are well-roasted ones. The initial roasting process rids the oolong leaves of any unnecessary moisture, making them perfect for aging.
Light, green oolongs, on the other hand, are usually not great for aging. When we keep these teas for over a year, they typically start tasting old and particularly sour. Furthermore, their taste doesn't improve. It's best to drink these greener types of oolongs as fresh as possible.
Most farmers choose to age the following types of oolong tea: Tieguanyin and Wuyi oolongs. We can age both rolled and curled oolong tea leaves.
How To Make Aged Oolong Tea?
Brewing aged oolong tea is very easy. They are pretty forgiving of brewing conditions compared to other tea types. We can brew our aged oolong tea with boiling water. Of course, we recommend trying your aged oolong Gong Fu style. It will pair especially well with Yixing teaware.