We continue our subject on Chinese teas produced in Asia, with Vietnamese tea, specifically Pu-erh tea produced in Vietnam. We know Pu-erh tea is a type of Chinese fermented tea originating from the Yunnan province. Yunnan has a millennium-long history with tea, which has exerted a profound influence on China's neighboring countries, Vietnam in particular. Not to mention, the region's geographical and administrative boundaries were not the same as they are today. So, let's explore the culture and legacy of Vietnamese tea, with a focus on Vietnamese Pu-erh tea.
"In the gentle swirl of tea leaves and water,
There is a magic that cannot be bought or bartered.
The fragrance of tea, so delicate and refined,
Brings a touch of heaven to the mind."
"The Art of Tea" by Nguyen Khuyen
The History of Vietnamese Tea
Tea has a long and rich history in Vietnam, dating back over a thousand years. It deeply intertwines with the country's traditions, social practices, and economy. Tea cultivation and consumption played a significant role in the country's history and identity.
Historically, it was the elite and aristocracy in Vietnam who primarily consumed tea. They valued it for its taste and health benefits. Over time, tea became more accessible to the general population. Today, it is a common drink throughout the country.
Tea has also been an essential part of Vietnamese social practices and ceremonies. In the past, tea was often used as a form of currency during the Nguyen dynasty and was an important part of the country's trade and commerce. Tea was also a vital part of traditional Vietnamese ceremonies and rituals, often served as a gesture of hospitality and respect.
Vietnamese Tea - Legends vs Reality
The origin of Vietnamese tea is not clear. There are claims that it was introduced by traders from Yunnan, China, during the Tang Dynasty (7th-10th century). From then on, tea cultivation in Vietnam developed into unique traditions and practices with a rich folklore legacy. A local legend about the origin of tea tells about Thanh Giong, a Vietnamese folk hero. Thanh Giong was a young boy who defeated an invading army thanks to the strength he gained from the tea. The story often serves as an example of the close connection between tea and Vietnamese culture.
Another local legend about tea involves the village of Thai Nguyen, said to be the birthplace of Vietnamese tea culture. According to the legend, a group of monks discovered a wild tea plant growing in the mountains near the village and began cultivating it. Over time, tea became popular among the locals and spread throughout the region. Eventually, it became an important part of Vietnamese culture and cuisine.
However, while Thai Nguyen is the heart of modern green tea production, the ancestral roots of Vietnamese tea culture are found in the northern mountainous regions, where the indigenous H'Mong and Dao ethnic groups have harvested wild ancient trees for centuries.
Vietnamese tea ceremony in Hanoi
Most Popular Vietnamese Tea Types.
Tea is an essential part of Vietnamese culture, with the northern and central regions of the country being the primary tea-growing areas.
According to the Vietnam Tea Association's 2018 report, black tea accounts for most of Vietnam's tea production, making up 52% of the total output, while green tea accounts for 43%. Thai Nguyen, Phu Tho, Tuyen Quang in the north, and Lam Dong in the central highlands are the main regions that produce green tea.
Oolong tea was first introduced to Vietnam in the 19th century by Chinese immigrants who brought tea plants with them. However, only in recent decades has oolong tea production become a significant part of the Vietnamese landscape, finding great success through the use of high-quality Taiwanese cultivars. Today, it is grown in various regions, including Lam Dong, Moc Chau, Lai Chau, and Ha Giang. Most Oolong tea produced in Vietnam is made from imported Oolong trees, mainly Taiwanese varietals.
White tea is another popular variety produced in Vietnam. It is grown in the northern provinces of Thai Nguyen and Yen Bai and in the southern regions of Lam Dong and Binh Thuan.
Pu-erh tea, a traditional variety of tea, is mainly grown in Ha Giang, Yen Bai, Son La, Dien Bien, and Lao Cai provinces.
In Vietnam, "Yellow Tea" usually refers to Chè Vàng, which is the sun-dried Maocha used in Puerh-style production.
Vietnamese Tea: Sheng Pu-erh
Although Vietnam produces several tea types, including green and red tea, it has developed a lasting local tradition of Pu-erh tea production and consumption over the ages. In Vietnam, Pu-erh tea has traditionally been consumed by ethnic minority groups in the country's northern mountainous regions of the country. The Hmong, Dao, Tay, and Thai communities, in particular, have a long history of cultivating and consuming Pu-erh tea as part of their cultural and social practices. The main production is in the provinces of Ha Giang, Lao Cai, Yen Bai, and Son La in Northern Vietnam. These regions have climates and geographies similar to Yunnan's, making them ideal for growing large-leafed tea trees. Many ancient tea trees of the Shan Tuyet variety can be found growing at high altitudes between 700 and 2800 meters.
Shan Tuyet is a unique regional variety known scientifically as Camellia sinensis var. Shan. Shan Tuyết translates to "mountain snow" in Vietnamese, referring to the white fuzz on tea buds and leaves that resembles snow. While it's still part of the larger Assamica variety, Shan Tuyet trees are particularly valued for their resilience to the harsh climate and their unique flavor profile, shaped by the terroir of Vietnam's high-altitude regions.
One of the traditional customs associated with Pu-erh tea in these communities is sharing tea with friends and family. It is common for people to gather around a pot of Pu-erh tea, take turns pouring and drinking, and engage in conversation and socializing. This practice is a way to strengthen social bonds and build relationships.
Another traditional practice associated with Pu-erh tea in these communities is offering tea to guests as a sign of hospitality and respect. When guests visit a household, the host welcomes them with a pot of Pu-erh tea. They pour and serve it as a gesture of goodwill and friendship.
Pu-erh tea is also used in traditional medicine in Vietnam and reportedly has various health benefits. People use it to treat multiple ailments like digestive issues, high blood pressure, and cholesterol. It is also believed to have detoxifying properties and is sometimes used in detox diets and weight loss programs.
Vietnamese Tea: Local Customs About Pu-erh Tea
In Vietnam, several local tribes have been growing and processing tea for centuries, with a deep connection to the land and the traditional tea cultivation and production practices. Some of them include the Hmong, Thai, and Dao tribes, primarily found in the mountainous regions of Northern Vietnam.
These tribes have developed different methods of tea cultivation and processing, often using sustainable techniques passed down through generations. The Hmong people, for example, are known for cultivating tea in small, terraced gardens on steep slopes, using natural fertilizers and organic pest control methods.
Tea plays an important role in local minorities' daily lives and social practices. Family members and friends share it as a gesture of hospitality and respect. Tea is also part of traditional ceremonies and rituals, such as weddings and funerals. It is also a cultural identity and a heritage symbol.
Beyond the standard loose-leaf or cake formats, the northern highlands are home to unique traditional specialties such as Broom Tea (Trà chít), where tea is aged inside stalks, and Bamboo Tea (Trà ống lam), where tea is aged inside of fresh bamboo. These teas are produced by the Dao people.
Comparing Chinese and Vietnamese Pu-erh
Vietnamese Sheng Pu-erh and Chinese Sheng Pu-erh are both types of sun-dried tea made from the same tea plant, Camellia sinensis. However, the two differ in taste, aroma and hui gan, among others.
Regarding taste, Vietnamese Sheng Pu-erh is often described as having a smoother, mellower flavor than Chinese Sheng Pu-erh, which tends to have a stronger, more complex flavor profile. Vietnamese Sheng also has a subtle sweetness and nutty flavor, while Chinese Sheng can have a more pronounced bitterness and astringency. However, some Vietnamese shengs may showcase a rich, bold taste with an initial bitterness that gives way to a long-lasting sweet finish. For example, Sheng from Shan Tuyet is known for its bold, rich flavor profile, with powerful initial bitterness.
In terms of aroma, Vietnamese Sheng is often described as having a light, floral scent, while Chinese Sheng has a more pronounced, complex aroma with hints of camphor, fruit, and flowers.
Production-wise, Vietnamese Sheng is often produced using traditional, small-scale methods, while Chinese Sheng is often produced using large-scale, industrial methods. Vietnamese Sheng is also generally less expensive than Chinese Sheng, making it more accessible to a wider range of tea drinkers.
Overall, while both Vietnamese Sheng Pu-erh and Chinese Sheng Pu-erh are fermented teas made from the same tea plant, there are some differences in taste, and aroma between the two. These differences can be attributed to terroir, and tea processing techniques.
Famous Pu-erh Tea-Producing Regions in Vietnam
Thượng Sơn is an area in the province of Hà Giang, located in the northern mountainous region of Vietnam. The area includes several mountains, and many tea gardens are at an altitude of 1300-1800m. The area is known for producing high-quality Sheng Pu-erh tea from the leaves of old tea trees in the surrounding mountains.
Sheng Pu-erh tea production in Thượng Sơn is a labor-intensive process that requires great skill and attention to detail. The farmers pick tea leaves by hand from tea trees that can be over 100 years old. They then carefully process the leaves to preserve their natural flavor and aroma.
The production of Sheng Pu-erh tea in Thượng Sơn is closely tied to the region's natural environment. The area lies over 1,000 meters above sea level, with ideal growing conditions for the tea trees. The area is also rich in biodiversity, with a variety of plants and animals in the surrounding mountains.
In recent years, Thượng Sơn has become a popular destination for tourists interested in learning about traditional tea production methods and tasting high-quality Sheng Pu-erh tea.